Bonjour World: In Pursuit of Elegance, Culture and Conversation Why December is the Perfect Time to Take the Train to Provence

By Rita Cook

There is something undeniably civilized about leaving Paris by train. In a world obsessed with speed, there is a distinct luxury in deliberately slowing down. Rail travel allows you to settle into your seat, watch the Parisian suburbs melt away, and let the real France unfold outside your window. This is precisely how travel is meant to be experienced.

This past December, my journey south to Provence unfolded in just that spectacular, unhurried fashion. The adventure began at the Gare de Lyon aboard Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa, heading south toward Marseille. The route is a seamless three-and-a-half-hour breeze, traveling through Lyon, Avignon, and Aix-en-Provence. And just like that, the light changes, and you are in Provence.

Steering a rental car toward the Provence of myth and memory, our first destination was Cassis. We checked into the Hôtel Liautaud, positioned right on the harbor. Visiting in December offers a completely different personality than the frenetic summer version; the crowds are gone, and the pace is delightfully somber. Spend the afternoon wandering the old, tangled streets, hike toward the Calanques National Park, and taste the celebrated local AOC wines.

From the coast, we veered inland to Gréoux-les-Bains in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, staying at the gorgeous 19th-century Hôtel & Spa Villa Castellane. It proved to be an exceptional base for exploring the rugged Verdon interior. My strongest recommendation here? Resist the urge to over-schedule. Sometimes the most profound thing you can do in Provence is absolutely nothing.

The next day drew us back to the sea, specifically to Carry-le-Rouet on the Côte Bleue. Built around a bustling marina, it calls for a classic French afternoon: find a sun-warmed spot by the harbor, order fresh seafood, and pour a glass of crisp white wine. That evening, we dined at L’Oursin, the intimate, gastronomic restaurant inside the Hôtel Bleu, overlooking the quiet port.

For the grand finale, we turned toward Aix-en-Provence, checking into the centrally located Hôtel Saint Christophe near the iconic Cours Mirabeau. This is the Provence of aristocratic boulevards, mossy fountains, and vibrant markets. December brings a spectacular bonus to Aix: the city absolutely loves Christmas, coming alive with brilliant holiday lights and chalets selling local crafts.

When it came time to board the train back to Paris, the transition felt seamless. That is the enduring magic of the rails—the transit itself becomes a chapter of the story.

 Sidebar: Trenitalia’s Paris-to-Marseille Route

• The Route: Trenitalia connects Paris and Marseille in 3 hours and 30 minutes, operating four daily round trips with strategic stops at Lyon Saint-Exupéry, Avignon TGV, and Aix-en-Provence TGV.
• The Onboard Experience: The sleek Frecciarossa trains feature complimentary drinks, personalized snacks, and an onboard espresso machine trolley. Wide reclining leather chairs and generous luggage compartments ensure a completely relaxed ride.
• The Classes:
  • Executive Class: A private 10-seat sanctuary featuring unlimited full meal service.
  • Business & Standard: Choose the Silenzio zone for quiet relaxation, or the Allegro zone for conversation.
  • Sala Meeting: A private, soundproof boardroom for 2 to 5 passengers.

Booking & Flexibility: One-way fares start at €27. Tickets can be exchanged an unlimited number of times for free prior to departure (subject to fare adjustments). Cancellations are permitted up until departure for a 20% fee. Book via the Trenitalia France app or at trenitalia.com.